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The Bar Review #1

von Silvia Iacobescu

Give your tongue something to talk about.

Smooth. Creamy. Tingling. Pungent. Floral. Earthy. Fruity. Smoky….and so on.

When you leave home for a new dining experience, rest assured you are not the only one excited – All your sensors are fully awake. This December I left for London to fuel my mind and give my tongue something to talk about. Subject of Desire: Mixology – Or how to pour magic in a glass.

Before Christmas, London glimmers in golden hues. Glittering champagne coupes, at every pub or bar in town, passed from hand to hand, with sparkling laughter. Rivers of bubbles pouring from taps or magnum bottles everywhere you look.

But this year my interest goes to one bar, rather than every bar: A Bar with Shapes for a Name. An institution that puts perfection into technique and embraces „no waste“ processes. 

“Peach and Hops” – peach, citra hops, prosecco; (right) minimalist serving areal “A Bar with Shapes for a Name”  Both photos were taken in the Bauhaus Warehaus by Silvia Iacobescu

Inspired by Bauhaus, an art movement dating 1920’s, each detail (from location design to drink architecture or even bartender’s attire) is focused on exploring the power of colour on the human mind. 

In pursue of scientific proven meaning, Wassily Kandinsky (key figure of the Bauhaus school) devised a survey in 1923, where participants were asked to match the three primary colours (red, yellow and blue) to particular forms (circle, square and triangle), to demonstrate the psychological impact of colour.

What shape is colour?

The bar’s logo pays homage to the findings of Kandinsky’s questionnaire: a yellow triangle, a red square and a blue circle. Yellow stands for mind and thought, red for static and heavy, blue evokes relaxation and motion in the same time. 

With these in mind I began my experience. The main bar is located in East London, on Kingsland Road. A bit shy from the tourist eye, it is a minimalist / almost industrial space, using concrete, wood and metal, with dim lights and velvet sofas.

Obviously, every piece of furniture is red, blue or yellow. Even if a bit “cold”, with sharp contrasts, the bar is the right stage for showcasing perfection, as if each glass would be a window to an other perfect world. 

A ten minutes’ walk along the same road brings you to the Bauhaus Warehaus …a space of connection with creation,  where by-products from the main bar are transformed into new, innovative concoctions, sold at a lower price.

Nothing goes to waste. Here you can glimpse the laboratory where fermentation, distillation, clarification, fat washing and other geeky techniques are taking place. Here ice becomes a jewel.

The downstairs lab, in the Bauhaus Warehaus, where ice is made. The rainbow reflection cubes or as I call them “cube iterations” are used for cocktail Kasimir  Photos by Silvia Iacobescu

In the main bar, the bartenders have on single-colour overalls. In the Warehaus they wear white t-shirts and yellow rubber boots; with broad smiles, always keen to share the story of what they do and the concept behind the bar. We had very cool discussions (literally, in the freezing room :)) 

Laboratory Bauhaus Warehaus. Photos by Silvia Iacobescu

By applying Bauhaus methods and theories, each drink aims to provoke emotions through flavour, colour and texture. Each ingredient is elevated to the optimum point and each technique is carefully chosen, not to be intrusive. In short, I adored their cocktails for innovation and elegance. 

Both drink menus are exceptional. I was particularly impressed by the complex flavour layering in the Warehaus cocktails (probably because you tend to be more creative with byproducts, which otherwise can become waste) while in the main bar, the elegance and mystery of each drink is just overwhelming. 

My favourites:

  1. Bauhaus Warehaus Coffee & Cream – coffee, porcini mushrooms, cream soda, recomposed lime (with coffee as byproduct of Espresso Martini). Served in a yellow-bottomed glass, with the right fizziness and acidity. Coffee on the nose, a hint of sour dark chocolate at first sip and powerful earthy notes lingering in the background. A delicious wake-up moment demanding attention and surrender rather than merely being a companion.
  2. Main bar Toreador tequila, apricot, agave, recomposed lime. Served on a blue coaster and fully transparent asks immediately for an inquisitive mind. Despite the combo apricot and agave, which led my thoughts to jam, it was a perfectly balanced cocktail. Sweet & Sour with delicate notes of smokiness which slowly faded into citrus accents towards the end. 

(Left) 1. Burnt Butter Old Fashioned – rye, butter, rum, salt 2. Bitter & Beer – sipello vermouth, yuzu, 40ft disco pills beer. (Right) Coffee & Cream – coffee, porcini mushroom, cream soda, recomposed lime. Photos by Silvia Iacobescu

(Left) Toreador – tequila, apricot, agave, recomposed lime. (Right) Peach & Hops – peach, citra hops, prosecco Photos by Silvia Iacobescu

Did I have fun?

Yes, it was an intriguing & dazzling experience, a Christmas gift in a glass (or few…) 

And if you think I might be slightly subjective, have a look at the review on the The World 50 Best Bars website.

Cheers!

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